FAQs

Anything beyond the curb box or meter pit, which is usually located in the right-of-way or at the property line, is the owner’s responsibility. PUB is responsible for the meter itself and the connection.

PUB offers a number of options for paying your water bill. You can learn more about these options by visiting the  Pay My Bill  section on our site.

• Pay Online with Credit Card:
  Utilizing the link on our website, you can pay online with a valid Visa, MasterCard, or Discover credit card.
• Direct Debit Payment:
  You can pay your monthly bill by registering your checking account with our Direct Debit Payment (DDP) service. Our DDP will automatically deduct sufficient funds from your checking account to pay the amount on your current monthly statement.
• Pay in Person:
  You can pay at the billing office (1919 Garfield Ave., Parkersburg, WV 26101) during our normal business hours of 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday.
• Pay by Mail:
  To pay your bill by mail, utilize the stub and envelope provided with the bill send a check or money order to:
  Parkersburg Utility Board
  P.O. Box 1629
  Parkersburg, WV 26101-1629
  Be sure to include your account number on the check. Do not send cash through the mail.
• Pay at Drop Box:
  At any time during regular business hours, or if you need to drop off your payment after hours or on weekends, you may do so by placing your envelope with payment enclosed in the drop box located at 1919 Garfield Ave and #1 Government Square, Municipal building.

• To stop your water service, please either use the “ End Service ” link, or contact a customer service rep at 304.424.8550.
• If you are moving within our service area and would like to transfer your service, please use the “ Transfer Location ” link, or contact a customer service rep at 304.424.8550.

Direct Debit Payment (DDP) is a fast and reliable way to pay your water and/or sewer bill. When you use DDP, you authorize Parkersburg Utility Board to collect payment for your utility fees directly from your checking or savings account. To learn more, visit the  Pay My Bill  section.

You save time because there are no checks to write. You save money by avoiding the cost of mailing. You can be assured your bill will be paid in full and on time even if you are away from home.

When you receive your bill in the mail, you will see a message on your bill stating that you’re on Direct Debit Payment, the dollar amount that will be deducted, and when the payment will be applied.

For questions concerning the accuracy of bills, contact a customer service rep at 304.424.8550 as soon as you receive your bill. Every effort will be made to make any necessary corrections before the due date.

To enroll, please complete the Direct Debit Payment Authorization Agreement. This form is available to download and print from the  Pay My Bill  section on the website. You may also request one from customer service by calling 304.424.8550. Once filled out, attach a voided check or deposit slip, and return it to the address shown on the form.

You can discontinue your DDP arrangement by completing the Direct Debit Payment Authorization Discontinuance at least 15 days prior to the date you want it terminated. This form is available to download and print from the  Pay My Bill  section, or you can request one from a customer service representative at 304.424.8550.

If you have a question concerning your utility bill, contact the Customer Service Department at 304.424.8550.

In an emergency, certain necessities of life may be hard to come by, and you may need special tools to deal with unusual situations.

These are a few things you should consider putting your home emergency kit:

• photocopies of important records (credit and ID cards, deeds, property records, insurance policies, home inventory, birth certificates, marriage or divorce records, etc.)
• a small amount of cash or traveler’s checks
• medical necessities (medication, wheelchair and hearing aid batteries, contact lense solution, etc.)
• supplies for your pets (food, a leash or container, veterinary records)
• food and water for at least three days (including supplies for any pets). A good rule of thumb for water is one gallon a day per person.
• cooking necessities ( a can opener, paper plates and plastic utensils, etc.)
• portable, battery-powered, or hand-cranked radio
• flashlight
• extra batteries
• first-Aid kit and instruction book
• matches
• whistle
• extra clothing
• pliers or wrench to turn off utilities
• local maps
• sanitation and personal hygiene items (moist towelettes, toilet paper, feminine, supplies, garbage bags)
• blankets
• fire extinguisher

Keep your supplies (particularly food) in air-tight plastic bags, and keep your complete emergency kit in one or two closeable, easily portable containers (such as a camping backpack, duffel bag, ice chest or unused trash can with a lid). The kit should be stored in a cool, dry place that will be easily accessible in an emergency. Review your emergency kit at least once per year. Make sure that everything is still fresh and in working order, and update it if your family needs have changed.

Emergency supplies are important, but sometimes a little knowledge is more valuable than anything you might have in your emergency kit.

Here are a few tips for making sure your “knowledge kit” is in order:

• Find out what kinds of disasters can strike your home. Has there ever been a flood where you live? A mudslide? A major earthquake?
• Learn the danger signs. Do you know how to tell when storm drains are overflowing? Or, how to find out if a fire is close enough to endanger your home.
• Learn first aid, CPR, and how to operate a fire extinguisher.
• Talk to experts. Do you know how to shut off your gas and electricity? Because building standards vary, you should consult an expert to find out what action to take in your home.
• Develop a plan of action. Together with your family, decide what you would do if disaster struck. Make sure your plan includes escape routes and a means of staying in contact, and that everyone has all the information they need (where supplies are stored, how to shut off the gas, etc.).

After a disaster, it’s critical that you have water on hand in case the water normally provided by PUB is unavailable.

Use these guidelines to decide how much water you should set aside for use in an emergency:

• As a general rule, you need at least one gallon of water per person per day (half a gallon for drinking; half a gallon for cooking and cleaning).
• This amount will vary depending on age, activity, physical condition and diet.
• If it is hot, you will need more water. Double the normal amount if it is very hot.
• Children, nursing mothers and sick people require more water.
• Some additional water should be on hand for medical emergencies.

There are several ways you can make sure your emergency water supply stays fresh:

• Purchase commercially bottled water, keep it sealed, and replace it after its “use by” date.
• Purchase a food-grade water-storage container from a camping supply store, thoroughly clean and rinse it, and fill it with water in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Store your water in a cool, dry place. If you are not using commercially bottled water, replace it every six months.
• Empty large plastic soft-drink bottles (not milk or juice containers because they may promote bacterial growth), thoroughly clean and rinse them, sanitize them with household chlorine bleach (one teaspoon of unscented bleach to a quart of water, swished in the bottle so it touches all surfaces), rinse thoroughly with warm water, and fill to the top with tap water. Add two drops of unscented liquid chlorine bleach. Seal tightly using the original cap, being careful not to touch the inside with your fingers. Write the date on the outside of the bottle and store out of direct sunlight.

After a disaster, if you hear reports of broken water or sewage lines, or if officials advise you of a water problem, you may want to shut off your water to prevent tainted water from getting into your home. Turning off your main shut off valve also prevents a broken water line from draining your toilet tanks and hot water heater.

Note that the house shut off valve is not the valve located at the street right of way or inside the meter pit, that valve can only be turned off by PUB personnel. The house shut off valve should be located inside the structure near where the water service line enters the structure.

Here are some tips for managing water in a disaster:

• Never ration water unless authorities recommend doing so, and never drink less than a quart of water a day.
• Don’t drink cloudy or otherwise contaminated water from a faucet, stream or pond without treating it first, unless you are at risk of dehydration.
• To use the water in your pipes after your water is turned off, completely open the lowest faucet in your home and capture water as it trickles out.
• To use the water in your hot water tank, turn off the electricity and/or gas, open the drain at the bottom of the tank, turn off the water intake valve, and turn on the hot water faucet. Be sure to refill the tank before turning it back on.
• You can also get drinkable water from melted ice and liquids from canned goods.
• Never drink water from radiators, hot water boilers, water beds, toilets, pools, or spas.

If you need to report a main water line or utility service line break or a sewer backup, please contact 304.424.8535 during normal business hours. After hours and weekends for water call 304.424.8532, or for sewer call 304.424.8538.

Why was I advised to boil my water?

You may be asked to boil your tap water during an emergency or other situation, such as:

• A water main break or repairs
• If the water pressure drops due to equipment failure or power outages
• If tests show that potentially harmful microorganisms may be present in the water
• If the water source has been flooded
• During other situations that warrant special action to protect the public’s health

How does boiling make my tap water safe?

Boiling the water kills microorganisms such as bacteria, viruses, or protozoa that can cause disease. Boiling makes the tap water microbiologically safe.

How long should I boil the water?

Bring tap water to a full rolling boil, let it boil for one minute, and let it cool before using.

Can I boil water in the microwave?

Tap water can be boiled in the microwave (in a microwave-safe container), provided that the water reaches a full rolling boil for one minute. Place a microwave-safe utensil in the container to keep the water from superheating (heating above the boiling point without forming steam or bubbles).

Do I have to boil the tap water used to make beverages?

Yes. Boil all of the tap water you use for making coffee, tea, mixed drinks, or any beverage made with water. In addition, all tap water used for making ice for consumption must be boiled.

Should I boil the tap water used to make baby formula?

Yes. Only use boiled tap water or bottled water for mixing formula for your baby.

Do I need to boil water before using it to wash vegetables that will be eaten raw?

Yes. Boil all of the tap water you use for washing raw vegetables.

Should I boil the tap water used in cooking?

All tap water used in cooking must first be boiled for one minute, unless the cooking process involves boiling for one minute or more.

Do I have to boil my dish-washing water?

No. Adding a tablespoon of unscented, household bleach, such as Clorox, to a sink full of tap water should be sufficient to treat the water used for washing dishes. Bleach should also be added to the water used for rinsing dishes. Allow dishes and utensils to air dry before reuse.

You may wash dishes in an electric dishwasher, but be sure to use it with its heating elements turned on. After washing in an electric dishwasher, dishes should be rinsed in water with a tablespoon of bleach added, and allowed to air dry before reuse.

Should I boil tap water before brushing my teeth?

Yes. Any tap water that might be swallowed should be boiled before use.

Is it necessary to boil water to be used for hand washing? Is any special soap necessary?

Yes. It is necessary to boil the tap water used for washing hands; however, no special soaps are necessary.

What about my bath water?

It is recommended that you boil water for bathing or showering. If you do not boil water for bathing or showering, care should be taken to avoid getting water in the mouth or swallowing the water. Infants and toddlers should be sponge bathed with boiled water which has been allowed to cool. No special soaps are necessary. Care should be taken to prevent tap water that has not been boiled from getting into deep open or post-surgical wounds. Consult your physician or healthcare provider for wound care instructions.

Do I need to use boiled water for washing clothes or flushing the toilet?

No.

Do I still have to boil tap water if I have a water treatment device?

Yes. Devices designed to improve the taste, odor, or chemical quality of the water, such as activated carbon filters, will not remove harmful microorganisms from the tap water. Boil the tap water to make sure it is safe.

Can I use bottled water instead of boiling tap water?

Yes. Bottled water can be used for all of the situations where boiled tap water is recommended in this brochure. Be sure that the bottled water is from a reliable source.

Can I haul water from my neighbor’s well or spring for drinking purposes?

No. You should only use water from an approved, tested source. Without routinely testing the water there is no way to know if the water is safe to drink.

Should I boil the tap water I give my animals or pets?

You can boil the tap water you give to the animals in your care. Your veterinarian can tell you if this precaution is necessary.

What should I do if I become sick?

See your family physician or healthcare provider. Your doctor may call the West Virginia Office of Environmental Health Services 304.558.2981 for information about the boil water notice. Your doctor should notify the local health department if he or she suspects your illness was caused by microorganisms in the water.

Some people may be more vulnerable to contaminants. People with weakened immune systems, such as people with cancer undergoing chemotherapy, organ transplant patients, people with HIV/AIDS or other immune system disorders, some elderly, and infants can be at greater risk from infections. These people should seek advice about drinking water from their healthcare providers. Guidelines on ways to reduce the risk of infection from microbiological contaminants are available from the Safe Drinking Water Hotline at 800.426.4791.

How will I know when it is safe to drink my tap water?

You will be notified when tests show that the tap water is safe to drink. You may be asked to run water to flush the pipes in you home before using your tap water or be given other special instructions. Until you are notified, continue to boil all tap water for one minute before use.

We read all meters in the system every month; efforts are made to read your meter on the same day each month. The date your meter was read is printed on your water bill and your meter will likely be read on the same day next month, be advised that weather conditions and other events may affect the reading schedule.

We have no way to know if a faucet has been left open or if a pipe may be broken inside your home or business. Providing access allows us to avoid unnecessary damage or high bills.

You should call the meter shop during business hours at 304.424.8544 or after hours call 304.424.8532. If the meter is inside, someone will need to be home to provide access to the meter. Please be sure to provide contact information (phone number) so we may contact you to schedule an appointment and to verify that both parties are available to meet.

If the meter is inside your home, you will need to have someone home. If the meter is outside in a pit where we have access you do not need to be home.

We attempt to verify meter readings that show a higher than normal consumption and notify customers of the condition. You may also read the meter yourself. The face of the meter contains a space very similar to the odometer on a car. Compare these numbers to the numbers on your bill. Your new set of numbers should be slightly higher than the numbers on your bill. If the reading was correct, you should begin checking for a leak. Be sure that no water is being used in your home, check the triangle indicator on the meter face, if it is moving you have a leak.

Occasionally, it is impossible to read a meter at the scheduled time, usually due to inclement weather conditions. In such cases, an estimated bill is rendered based on a historical average consumption. An estimated bill may be a little higher or lower if actual usage was abnormal, however, the next actual reading will automatically adjust for any variation in the estimate.

To Help Improve Accuracy and Efficiency:

• Residential water and wastewater bills are generated from monthly readings taken by meter readers from the Meter Services Department. With hundreds of meters to read daily, your meter reader must be able to quickly access your water meter to insure accurate and timely readings so that your utility account will be charged correctly. Every time a meter reader can get a quick and accurate reading on the first visit to a property, it helps keep utility costs down and rates stable for everyone. It is important to be considerate of your meter reader by insuring that your water meter is easily accessible.
• Cut back grass, weeds, shrubs, bushes, or trees that cover or block the way to the meter. Avoid planting flowers, trees, and shrubbery that will impede the way to the meter. Having to tiptoe around delicate plants or flowers can be difficult and time consuming for your meter reader who does not want to damage your special garden treasures.
• Don’t forget your meter in the fall and winter months. A meter can easily become hidden under a pile of fallen leaves. When removing leaves from your property, remember to keep your meter clear and accessible. During the winter as you clear ice and snow from sidewalks and driveways, be sure your meter is also uncovered and easy to find.
• Do not place objects in the way of the meter vault. This includes: automobiles, trailers, boats, garbage cans, construction equipment, piles of dirt, gravel, mulch, lumber and other building supplies. Also, if the meter is located behind a gate or fence, arrange access for the meter reader prior to the actual time of the reading.
• Make sure pets are secured and not obstructing access to the meter vault. Although your pet may seem friendly to you, the meter reader is a stranger and his/her presence in your pet’s “territory” may provoke an unwelcome response. If you have a pet that you use for security, please confine the pet during the day when your meter is to be read.
• It is always a good idea to ensure that your home address is clearly displayed. This is important not only for the meter reader, but also for emergency personnel who may need to find your home quickly.

To check for household leaks, turn off the water inside and outside your home. Observe the red leak indicator on the meter face; if it moves, there is water passing through the meter, indicating a leak.

To locate a leak, try:

• Looking for wet spots that could indicate a leak in the pipe between the meter and the home.
• Dropping a dye tablet in the toilet tank. Don’t flush. If colored water appears in the bowl, the toilet leaks.
• Listening for the sound of running water coming from your toilet. If you hear running water, your toilet has a leak.
• Checking your faucets and pipe fittings for any water on the outside of the pipe.
• Making sure your showerhead is not leaking where it connects to the pipe stem. Carefully tighten and use pipe dope or Teflon tape when securing it. You may also want to replace the o-ring inside the shower head.
• Examining your garden hose to make sure that it is not leaking where it connects to the spigot. Also, always turn water hoses off when not in use they were not intended for constant pressurization.

If your meter is located outside in a pit with a bolt-down lid or if you need assistance with this process, you should contact PUB at 304.424.8535 to schedule an assistance visit.

A leaking toilet can be annoying and wasteful. To check if your toilet has a leak, place a few drops of food coloring in the tank. If coloring is seen in the bowl without flushing, you have a leak.

To pinpoint the leak, follow these simple steps:

• If the tank is not filling with water, the float ball is not returning to seat properly.
• Check to see if the linkage that connects to the trip lever is hung up.
• If that doesn’t work, then the ball needs to be replaced. A flapper ball can replace a worn flush ball valve.
• If the tank is full of water, and water is flowing into the overflow tube, then the valve is not shutting off correctly.
• Lift up on the float ball, if the water shuts off, then the ball is not functioning properly. This could be caused by two things:
• The ball has a leak and is full of water. Replace with another ball or new flush assembly.
• The float ball needs adjusting. Use the screw at the base of the rod to lower the float ball so that the water level is ½ to 1 inch below the overflow tube.
• If water does not shut off when you lift up on the float ball, then the valve itself needs to be repaired or replaced. Repair kits and new valves with easy to follow instructions are available at local hardware stores.
• If water is not flowing into the overflow tube. But constantly runs or periodically turns on and off, the flush ball or flapper is not fitting snugly into the flush ball seat. When seats get old, they get pitted and allow water to leak past the seal and down the drain. Minerals and other deposits may also build up on the seat, making it rough.
• If worn, replace the flush ball or flapper.
• If the problem persists, the seat can be cleaned with steel wool, covered with a repair seal, or replaced.

It’s not always easy to tell if your toilet is leaking. To check for a slow leak, add some food coloring or dye tablets to the water in the tank and wait thirty minutes.

If the color seeps into the toilet bowl, you have a leak. To repair the leak, follow these steps:

• Remove the tank lid and check the float arm. Reach in and lift it up. If the water stops running, you’ve found the problem. Adjust the screws or bolts to the inlet float valve until the water stops flowing.
• If the toilet continues to leak, turn off the water supply valve to the tank, and flush the toilet to drain out the water. Examine the inlet float valve by removing the two screws or bolts and lifting the top of the valve housing out. Check the diaphragm. If it is even slightly damaged or worn, replace it.
• If the toilet periodically refills without flushing, examine the ball stopper or flapper valve. It should fit flush in its seat. If not, look at the lever and guide rods that operate the ball stopper. If they are crooked, gently straighten them. For toilets having a chain pull attached to the flapper valve, make sure the chain is slack when the valve is seated to insure a snug fit. If the ball or flapper valve itself is worn out, replace it. Check for corrosion or deposits on the seat and the ball stopper or flapper valve. Use steel wool to remove this buildup.
• Inspect the small refill tube that connects the fill valve to the refill-overflow tube to be sure the smaller tube ends slightly above the standing water level of the completely filled tank. If necessary, gently pull the small tube upward until its end is correctly placed.
• If the toilet is still leaking, you may have a problem fill valve. In this case a steady trickle of water will run constantly, flowing into the overflow tube in the toilet tank. If the water level in the tank is right up to the very top of the overflow tube, then you probably have a fill valve problem. First try to adjust the float level so the water stops flowing before reaching the overflow level.
• If this doesn’t stop the leak, replace the fill valve. Shut off the water supply to the toilet and flush to empty the tank. Sponge the final few cups of water from the bottom of the tank. Disconnect the supply line,and remove the nut on the bottom of the tank to remove the old fill valve assembly. Install a new fill valve assembly and reattach the supply line. Finally, attach the fill tube hose to the overflow tube. Turn the water back on, and adjust the float so that the water shuts off about one inch below the top of the overflow tube.

The water distributed by the Utility Board has a hardness that ranges between 10 and 11 grains per gallon or about 170 to 180 parts per million.

Hard Water Scale

Water TypeGrains/Gallon
Soft Water 2 Grains per Gallon

Extremely Hard Water 20 Grains per Gallon

Water Distributed by PUB10-11 Grains per Gallon

Why was I advised to boil my water?

You may be asked to boil your tap water during an emergency or other situation, such as:

• A water main break or repairs
• If the water pressure drops due to equipment failure or power outages
• If tests show that potentially harmful microorganisms may be present in the water
• If the water source has been flooded
• During other situations that warrant special action to protect the public’s health

How does boiling make my tap water safe?

Boiling the water kills microorganisms such as bacteria, viruses, or protozoa that can cause disease. Boiling makes the tap water microbiologically safe.

How long should I boil the water?

Bring tap water to a full rolling boil, let it boil for one minute, and let it cool before using.

Can I boil water in the microwave?

Tap water can be boiled in the microwave (in a microwave-safe container), provided that the water reaches a full rolling boil for one minute. Place a microwave-safe utensil in the container to keep the water from superheating (heating above the boiling point without forming steam or bubbles).

Do I have to boil the tap water used to make beverages?

Yes. Boil all of the tap water you use for making coffee, tea, mixed drinks, Kool-Aid, or any beverage made with water. In addition, all tap water used for making ice for consumption must be boiled.

Should I boil the tap water used to make baby formula?

Yes. Only use boiled tap water or bottled water for mixing formula for your baby.

Do I need to boil water before using it to wash vegetables that will be eaten raw?

Yes. Boil all of the tap water you use for washing raw vegetables.

Should I boil the tap water used in cooking?

All tap water used in cooking must first be boiled for one minute, unless the cooking process involves boiling for one minute or more.

Do I have to boil my dish-washing water?

No. Adding a tablespoon of unscented, household bleach, such as Clorox, to a sink full of tap water should be sufficient to treat the water used for washing dishes. Bleach should also be added to the water used for rinsing dishes. Allow dishes and utensils to air dry before reuse.

You may wash dishes in an electric dishwasher, but be sure to use it with its heating elements turned on. After washing in an electric dishwasher, dishes should be rinsed in water with a tablespoon of bleach added, and allowed to air dry before reuse.

Should I boil tap water before brushing my teeth?

Yes. Any tap water that might be swallowed should be boiled before use.

Is it necessary to boil water to be used for hand washing? Is any special soap necessary?

Yes. It is necessary to boil the tap water used for washing hands; however, no special soaps are necessary.

What about my bath water?

It is recommended that you boil water for bathing or showering. If you do not boil water for bathing or showering, care should be taken to avoid getting water in the mouth or swallowing the water. Infants and toddlers should be sponge bathed with boiled water which has been allowed to cool. No special soaps are necessary. Care should be taken to prevent tap water that has not been boiled from getting into deep open or post-surgical wounds. Consult your physician or healthcare provider for wound care instructions.

Do I need to use boiled water for washing clothes or flushing the toilet?

No.

Do I still have to boil tap water if I have a water treatment device?

Yes. Devices designed to improve the taste, odor, or chemical quality of the water, such as activated carbon filters, will not remove harmful microorganisms from the tap water. Boil the tap water to make sure it is safe.

Can I use bottled water instead of boiling tap water?

Yes. Bottled water can be used for all of the situations where boiled tap water is recommended in this brochure. Be sure that the bottled water is from a reliable source.

Can I haul water from my neighbor’s well or spring for drinking purposes?

No. You should only use water from an approved, tested source. Without routinely testing the water there is no way to know if the water is safe to drink.

Should I boil the tap water I give my animals or pets?

You can boil the tap water you give to the animals in your care. Your veterinarian can tell you if this precaution is necessary.

What should I do if I become sick?

See your family physician or healthcare provider. Your doctor may call the West Virginia Office of Environmental Health Services 304.558.2981 for information about the boil water notice. Your doctor should notify the local health department if he or she suspects your illness was caused by microorganisms in the water.

Some people may be more vulnerable to contaminants. People with weakened immune systems, such as people with cancer undergoing chemotherapy, organ transplant patients, people with HIV/AIDS or other immune system disorders, some elderly, and infants can be at greater risk from infections. These people should seek advice about drinking water from their healthcare providers. Guidelines on ways to reduce the risk of infection from microbiological contaminants are available from the Safe Drinking Water Hotline at 800.426.4791.

How will I know when it is safe to drink my tap water?

You will be notified when tests show that the tap water is safe to drink. You may be asked to run water to flush the pipes in you home before using your tap water or be given other special instructions. Until you are notified, continue to boil all tap water for one minute before use.

Sometimes water appears cloudy or milky because air is trapped inside the water pipe, causing excess bubbles. You should let the water sit in a container, the bubbles will dissipate over time. If it continues, run your COLD water for several minutes.

Chlorine is added to kill bacteria and prevent waterborne illness. Chlorine levels vary depending on the distribution system. The chlorine levels in the water discharged from the treatment plants range from 1.0 mg/l to 1.5 mg/l (milligrams per liter or parts per million). Fluoride provides a defense against tooth decay and has been proven to promote oral health. Fluoride is added to tap water at a concentration of approximately 1 milligram per liter or 1 part per million, as recommended by the American Dental Association. Both of these substances are added to water during the water treatment process.

Yes. Chlorine dissipates over time so fill a pitcher and place it in your refrigerator.

Sometimes crews flush water to maintain water quality or test the hydrants. While the hydrants are flushing you may see lower than usual water pressure, but it will be restored when flushing ends.

If you have any questions, please contact the Water Treatment Plant at (304) 424-8532.

You may install water saving aerators on your sinks and shower heads and turn off the sink water while you are brushing your teeth, the average person wastes 4 to 6 gallons of water needlessly for each brushing. The average family of four uses an estimated 200 gallons of water per day, so a little savings each day goes a long way. A typical water usage breakdown for a family of four shows in a percentage of water used:

• Toilet Flushing - 40 %
• Bath and Shower - 32 %
• Laundry - 14 %
• Dishwashing - 6 %
• Cooking and Drinking - 5 %
• Bathroom Sink - 3 %

If you have not been notified of a possible termination of service related to a delinquent bill, it is likely that your lack of water service may be related to an unscheduled service interruption caused by a break on a water main or on the water service line on your property. Please call 304-424-8535 during regular business hours, or after hours at 304-424-8532, for information and assistance. Always keep bottled water on hand for such emergencies.

That depends on the nature of the service interruption. In most situations, service should be restored within 4 hours. However, in some cases, due to line size, surrounding utilities, or unusual conditions, it may take longer for service to be restored.

Throughout the year you may see PUB and the Parkersburg Fire Department personnel flowing fire hydrants. This is done periodically to verify that water flows and pressures are adequate and appropriate for that portion of the distribution system. PUB personnel also flows fire hydrants twice a year to verify the operation of the hydrants and to remove sediment in the mains in order to maintain water clarity and quality in the distribution system.

Yes, your water is safe to drink. Occasionally, water becomes discolored after hydrant flushing. If this happens, run your cold water in a bathtub for a few minutes until the water clears. If it doesn’t clear the first time, wait a few minutes and run the water again. If your water is still discolored after the second attempt, contact PUB at 340-424-8535 for assistance. You should avoid washing clothes until the water clears. In addition, removing and cleaning the aerators on your faucets will remove any trapped sediment.

Fire hydrants are periodically flushed to maintain water quality in the distribution system and verify they are operating properly. Additionally, PUB and fire department personnel use hydrants to make assessments as to whether adequate pressure and flow are available to satisfy normal system demands, as well as the increased demand required in the event of a fire. These actions, as well as some construction or maintenance activities, or nearby water main breaks, may result in brief periods during which you may experience a discoloration of your tap water.

Disinfectants are required because they prevent the spread of germs that cause diseases. Years ago, before disinfectants were used for drinking water, diseases such as cholera, typhoid fever, and dysentery were common. Disinfecting drinking water has vastly improved the quality and safety of drinking water.

Chlorine is typically added to water for disinfection purposes (to kill any bacteria that may be present), but can also be used as an oxidant to remove odors, such as naturally-occurring hydrogen sulfide, or as an aid in the iron and manganese removal process. To reduce any chlorine taste or smell, try refrigerating your water before drinking. If the chlorine odor or taste is unusually high, please call 304-424-8535 and we will investigate.

According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency, home treatment units are rarely necessary for health reasons. Most often, water treatment units are used to remove substances that affect the aesthetic qualities of water. If you do choose to install a home treatment unit, it is important to follow the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions because improperly maintained units can actually cause water quality problems.

The most common cause of odor in hot water is the water heater. If your cold water smells fine, check your water heater to ensure that the temperature setting is correct. Water heaters also need periodic maintenance (see manufacturer’s instructions). Please call 304-424-8535 if the odor persists, or if it is present in both the hot and the cold water.

Tap water providers and bottled water providers must meet the same water quality standards. In fact, tap water providers are required to conduct more frequent water quality testing and reporting than bottled water providers. Some customers prefer the taste of bottled water, and some choose bottled water because they have special health needs. Tap water, however, is a much better deal, costing 1,000 times less than bottled water.

Water’s hardness varies with its source. Hard water is not harmful to health, so the choice to buy a water softener is an aesthetic one. However, people on low sodium diets should be aware that many water softeners increase the sodium content of the water. The hardness level of Parkersburg’s water averages 180 parts per million (ppm) or 10.53 grains per gallon. Water is considered soft if the total hardness is less than 75 ppm; Moderately hard at 75 to 150 ppm; Hard at 150 to 300 ppm; And very hard at 300 ppm or higher. To convert the hardness of your water from ppm to grains per gallon, simply divide by 17.1

Spots are caused by water hardness minerals (mainly calcium and magnesium), that remain after the water has evaporated. Spots can be eliminated through the use of a dishwasher rinsing agent.

It is a rare event when discolored water appears at your home or work, but it does happen. There can be many reasons, but discolored water usually originates in the water distribution system or private plumbing systems. Corrosion or rusting of the interior surfaces of metal pipes is a primary source of discoloration and particles that can appear in your water. There are several possible situations that can cause this material to be dislodged. The most probable of these causes are listed below along with the steps you can take to deal with a temporary problem.

Distribution System Causes

• Main Breaks: Water is delivered to your home or business through a network of underground pipes referred to as the distribution system. The principal pipe or conduit is called a main. Water mains in the distribution system can fail due to age, corrosion, high pressure surges, defective materials, or damage by construction work. Fire hydrants can also be broken off by vehicles. When a main breaks, the increased velocity of the water can pick up sediment and other materials that normally settle to the bottom of the pipes.
• Dead Ends: Every distribution system has mains that must be ended due to physical obstructions (rivers, roads, etc.) or city design features (sports complexes, cul-de-sacs, etc.). This results in a “dead end” that does not connect back with another main. Low usage in these areas results in sediment accumulation. Over time the lack of circulation can result in the appearance of discolored, foul tasting stale water.
• Fires and Fire Hydrants: The high velocity of water used to fight fires and to test fire hydrants can pick up sediment as described under “Main Breaks”.
• Construction Activities: Sometimes mains must be replaced or cleaned. Also, new buildings require connection to the existing water main. These and other similar activities may disturb the accumulated sediment and result in temporarily dirty water.

Private Plumbing System Causes

• Hot-Water Systems: Dirty water often originates in the hot-water tank. Hot water tanks can accumulate sediment and therefore need to be flushed clean.
• House Piping: Defective plumbing can lead to many dirty water conditions. Pieces of rubber or plastic washers that age and crumble can result in particles in the water. Improperly joined dissimilar materials (such as iron and galvanized, or copper and iron) can accelerate corrosion and turn water red or green. Rapid shut-off of faucets or automatic valves in washing machines can cause tremendous pressure surges that dislodge material from pipe walls.
• Cross Connections: Improper attachments for insecticide sprayers or hoses attached to faucets can lead to back-siphonage and introduce unwanted materials into the house plumbing system.

What should you do if you have dirty water?

• Determine the source of the dirty water- is it the hot or the cold water?
  First try flushing the toilet, and look into the bowl. Since the toilet uses only COLD water, if the bowl is clear, then the problem is with the hot water. If the bowl water is dirty, then the cold water is affected, and activities outside your home should be considered as the cause.
  
  If the hot water is the source, the hot water tank must be flushed clean, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. If the cold water is the source, the cold water needs to be flushed. Don’t continue to flush the toilet after the initial test. Don’t use the hot water. Prevent further accumulations of sediment in the hot water tank by not using the hot water. If the dishwasher or clothes washer is running, stop it mid cycle until until the water is cleared up.
• Look outside.
  If distribution system repair or maintenance is under way, this may be the cause. Also look for street sweepers or anyone else using a fire hydrant.
• Flush your plumbing.
  Open the cold-water faucet in the bathtub all the way open, full force, with the drain open, for about five minutes. Most dirty water situations will clear up in this time. If not, turn the water off, wait 10-15 minutes, and repeat the flushing again.

Many people welcome the crisp, cold winter weather, but nobody welcomes pipe-related headaches that can come with the dropping temperatures. On average, a quarter-million families have their homes severely damaged each winter because of frozen pipes that have burst or cracked, soaking carpets, ruining furniture and damaging walls. But you can prevent your pipes from freezing or bursting by taking the following steps.

Before the temperatures drop:

1. Insulate pipes in your home’s crawl spaces, attic, and garage. These exposed pipes are most susceptible to freezing. The more insulation you use, the more you can better protect your pipes.
2. Wrap pipes with heat tape or thermostatically controlled heat cables. Be sure to follow all manufacturer’s installation and operation instructions.
3. Seal leaks that allow cold air inside, near where pipes are located (i.e. around electrical wiring, dryer vents, other pipes), with caulk or insulation. When it’s extremely cold, a tiny opening can let in enough cold air to cause a pipe to freeze.
4. Disconnect garden hoses and, if practical, use an indoor valve to shut off and drain water from pipes leading to outside faucets, drip irrigation systems, sprinklers, and evaporative (swamp) coolers.

When it freezes:

1. Let warm water drip from your faucet overnight, preferably from a faucet on an outside wall.
2. Open cabinet doors to allow heat to reach uninsulated pipes under sinks and appliances near exterior walls.

If you’re away:

1. Don’t set the thermostat in your house too low.
2. Shut off and drain the water system by shutting off the main water valve (inside the structure) and turning on every fixture (both hot & cold) until water stops running. It’s not necessary to the fixtures open. But remember, if you have a fire protection sprinkler in your house, it may be deactivated when you shut off the water.

Finally, if your pipes do freeze:

1. Turn on your faucets. If nothing comes out, turn off the water at the main shut-off valve, leave the faucets on, and call a plumber.
2. Thaw frozen pipes with warm air from a hair dryer, if practical. Start by warming the pipe as close to the faucet as possible, working toward the coldest section of the pipe. Never thaw a pipe with a torch or other open flame.